Exploring
Turtle Bay
Residents and visitors alike can always find something to do in
Turtle Bay. Stroll among the sculptures of the United Nations. Duck
into a friendly pub and watch the game. Jog through Turtle Bay's
parks. Take a yoga class or pump iron at the Vanderbilt Y. Attend
an exhibit at the Japan
Society or a concert at the Turtle Bay Music School. Tour Turtle
Bay's sites. For a panoramic view of the environs, slip away to
the penthouse lounge of the Beekman Tower Hotel, an Art Deco landmark.
The following sites
are our Top Picks. Know any others? Send us an email
or postcard of your favorite spot in Turtle Bay.
Address
note: UN Plaza
The area of First Avenue between 42nd and 49th Street, site of the
United Nations complex, is officially known as UN Plaza.
Ford
Foundation
321 East 42nd Street (through to 43rd Street)
Considered to be among the City's finest works of architecture,
the offices of this building surround a soaring atrium of lush
plantings. The 12-story glassed in area shelters a terraced garden
with full-grown trees and a pool.
Tudor
City
A self-contained neighborhood with its own post office and park,
this residential enclave hovers on abutments over First Avenue
and UN Plaza. Tudor City can be approached by walking up the hill
from Second Avenue or by climbing up the steps in Ralph Bunche
Park (First Avenue at UN Plaza). Built between 1925 and 1928,
the private renewal effort transformed a shantytown once known
as Goat Hill into genteel apartment buildings in the Tudor style.
Tudor City's park is maintained by a nonprofit tenants' group,
Tudor City Greens. A favorite with joggers, its tranquil setting
makes the park a nice place to read and reflect. Two small public
playgrounds are located on adjacent city property.
A staircase
known as the Scharansky Steps (named for the Soviet dissident)
at the northeast end of Tudor City leads down to UN Plaza and
Ralph J. Bunche Park, just opposite the United Nations.
Ralph
J. Bunche Park
UN Plaza at East 42nd Street
This small public space with benches and ivy-clad trees was named
after the first black UN official, who served as secretary to
the Palestine Peace Commission and was awarded the Nobel Peace
Prize three years later.
The park's vertical
aluminum sculpture, Peace Form One, is by a contemporary black
artist, Daniel LaRue Johnson. The Isaiah Wall, given by New York
City to the United Nations, bears a quotation from the book of
Isaiah: "They shall beat their swords into plowshares."
With its proximity to the UN, the park is frequently the site
of demonstrations.
United
Nations Headquarters
United Nations Plaza, (First Avenue)
between East 42nd and East 48th Streets
John D. Rockefeller Jr.'s donation of the $8.5 million site, assembled
by real estate tycoon William Zeckendorf for a private development,
secured the location for this international institution dedicated
to world peace. The UN complex contains three main buildings:
the Secretariat, completed in 1950, the General Assembly building
(1952) and the Dag Hammarskjold Library (1963) in a park-like
setting. An international team of renowned architects led by America's
Wallace K. Harrison drew up the designs. Every major nation has
donated some work of art to the headquarters.
The General
Assembly lobby and outdoor promenade are open to the public. Tours
of the United Nations are offered daily (9 AM to 4:45 PM). Access
to the grounds during the same hours is free. The promenade contains
wide expanses of manicured lawn, magnificent sculptures, an esplanade
overlooking the East River, cherry trees, and rose gardens. A
monument to Eleanor Roosevelt offers a quiet place to sit and
reflect. The words inscribed there are worth noting: "Rather
than curse the darkness, she lit a candle, and her light has warmed
the world."
The Delegates
Dining Room, on the top floor of the Conference Building is open
to the public and though the buffet lunch is pricey, it affords
a sweeping view of the East River among impressive surroundings.
For reservations, call (212) 963-7626.
One of the most
arresting sculptures, visible for blocks, is Tsereteli Zurab's
contemporary representation of Saint George killing the dragon.
The mammoth monument was presented by the Soviet Union to commemorate
the 1987 signing with the U.S. of the Intermediate Nuclear Forces
Treaty. The dragon's body consists of parts of a Russian intercontinental
ballistic missile and an American Pershing missile.
United
Nations Plaza Hotel
NW corner of East 44th Street at First Avenue
Built in 1976, this sleek building of aluminum and blue-green
reflective glass houses an elegant Hyatt hotel, inviting public
spaces and offices. Its irregular shape presents an interesting
visual effect. The hotel's Ambassador Grill, with its mirrored
skylights creating the illusion of a night sky, is a favorite
among the diplomatic crowd.
Beaux-Arts
Apartment Hotel
307 and 310 East 44th Street
between UN Plaza and Second Avenue
Named for the adjacent Beaux Arts Institute, these two cubistic
compositions face each other on opposite sides of the street.
Built in 1930, they bear the hallmarks of the Art Deco period.
Beaux-Arts
Institute of Design
304 East 44th Street
between UN Plaza and Second Avenue
Built in 1928, the principles of the Beaux-Arts school of architecture
can be readily seen in this structure, which embodies the Art
Deco style. The building now houses a mission to the UN.
James
P. Grant Plaza & UNICEF House
East 44th Street
between UN Plaza and Second Avenue
This vest-pocket park next to UNICEF House bears the name of UNICEF's
executive director from 1980-1995. The park is open to the public
24 hours and its chairs and cafe tables provide a convenient spot
for bag lunches. Free lunchtime jazz concerts are featured during
June and July.
Next door the
UNICEF House provides exhibits of the UN agency's work for children
around the world with a gift shop that offers a diverse selection
of Unicef greeting cards by international artists.
Dag
Hammarskjold Plaza Park
East 47th Street
between First and Second Avenue
This block-long public space leading to the United Nations traditionally
served as a staging area for demonstrations. In 1995, an ambitious
landscape renovation by the city was undertaken, transforming
the barren plaza into a magnificent park befitting its location
as a Gateway to the UN. In May, 1997, the park's extensive border
planting was dedicated as the Katharine Hepburn Garden. In July,
1999, the entire reconstruction was completed and the park's official
opening was celebrated August 18, 1999. Six fountains enclosed
by iron-latticed pergolas grace the garden area, which is bounded
by granite seating walls. The center promenade features two rows
of facing benches and an entrance pavilion. The park has proven
popular with office workers and tourists as a lunch spot while
neighborhood residents enjoy the well lit benches and glimmering
fountains in the evening.
Noteworthy also
is the park's Holocaust Memorial and the adjacent Wallenberg
Memorial, located on the traffic island of UN Plaza.
Membership in Friends
of Dag Hammarskjold Plaza, a nonprofit community organization,
is open to all who wish to play a role in the conservancy of
the park.
Japan
Society
333 East 47th Street, Hammarskjold Plaza web site
This organization, dedicated to understanding and appreciation
of the Japanese culture, presents numerous programs and exhibits.
The building, funded by John D. Rockefeller III and erected in
the early 1970s, provides a striking example of modern Japanese
architecture. It also houses a lovely Zen garden. (See Events listing.)
Holy
Family Roman Catholic Church
315 East 47th Street, Hammarskjold Plaza
The present church, built on the site of a stable, was dedicated
in 1965 to serve the needs of the UN community, as well as the
Turtle Bay parish. Particular concern for the plight of refugees
throughout the world is portrayed in the stained glass windows,
which dominate the west wall. The word "hope" in various
languages is worked into the design. A large aluminum statue of
the risen Christ above the altar provides a focus for this spirit
of hope.
Enjoy a moment
of tranquility in St. Mary's Garden, the church's lovely courtyard
with a statue of St. Mary, a bridge over a pond, benches, and
lush plantings.
Sutton
Place Synagogue
225 East 51st Street
The Sutton Place Synagogue has a fascinating history going back
to the late 1800's, when an orthodox synagogue was established
on the second floor of a building at East 50th Street and Second
Avenue. The present Synagogue (now conservative) opened in 1976
and was built on the site of a former Con Edison building that
the congregation had used for a number of years. An addition is
now planned, to be used as a community center.
Under the direction of Rabbi Allan Schranz and Executive Director
Harriet Janover, the Synagogue now offers numerous programs for
the congregation and community. Daily services are held at 8 AM
and 5:30 PM Monday through Thursday, Fridays at 8 AM and 6:45
PM, and Saturday mornings at 9:00.
Salvation
Army
221 East East 52nd Street
The Salvation Army operates a Community Center that offers many
services for the elderly and is open to all who seek fellowship
and assistance. Members carry on their traditional service of
accepting donations of clothing and furniture for the needy. As
a church (in the Evangelical tradition) Sunday services are held
at 11:00 AM, followed by a hot lunch. Bible study is offered on
Tuesdays at noon. Counseling services are provided for persons
with personal or family problems. The hours for receiving donations
are variable, so call 758-0763 before dropping off clothing. For
furniture and larger items, call 757-2311 for pickup.
First
Reformed Episcopal Church
317 East 50th Street
212 755.0995
The "First Church" is the mother church of the Reformed
Episcopal Church in the United States and Canada. The REC
holds to the traditional Anglican faith and practice of the
English Reformation. The Rev. Dr. Matthew P.
Harrington, Rector
Sunday Services
9.00 am Holy Communion
11.00 am Morning Prayer
Church
of St. Agnes
143 East 43rd Street
The Church of St. Agnes is a phoenix, risen from the ashes of
a devestating fire in December of 1992. Now rebuilt from the ground
up, the Church is back in its traditional role as a landmark for
Catholics throughout the New York area. It has for many years
been best known for its weekly Latin Tridentine Mass (11:00 AM
every Sunday). Under the stewardship of Msgr. Eugene V. Clark,
Pastor, and no less than ten assistant priests, the Church has
numerous daily Masses and offers a veritable smorgasbord of services,
from novenas to a Community Club to a well-attended soup kitchen
for the homeless.
Vanderbilt
YMCA
224 East 47th Street
Once a hotel for railroad conductors, today this well managed
facility offers budget-priced accommodations (bunk beds and small
rooms) to many youth groups and frugal European tourists. If you
want to stay in shape and avoid the steep fees of Manhattan's
health clubs, check out the Y's modern fitness center. It has
all the essentials, including an Olympic-size swimming pool, basketball
courts, gyms, and steam rooms, plus a full roster of fitness classes
led by expert instructors.
In addition to its array of adult fitness classes, the Y offers
special programs for teens, as well as seniors, and a calendar
of seasonal outings and events.
The Vanderbilt
YMCA also provides the Turtle Bay Association with a small office
and the use of its conference room for scheduled meetings.
Turtle
Bay Gardens Historic District
226-246 East 49th Street
between Second and Third Avenues
During the 1920s, this group of brownstones was restored, and
the yards of two rows of town houses set back-to-back on 48th
and 49th street were turned into a communal garden by taking a
six-foot strip from each plot to form a common path. Low walls
and individual plantings mark the private yards.
Popular with
the literati, the block was immortalized by E. B. White in his
book The Second Tree from the Corner. Other residents included
Dorothy Thompson (1941-1957), Julian Bach (1960s), and Max Perkins
(1930s). In the late 40s, two adjoining houses (221 and 223 East
48 St.) were connected by designers Russell and Mary Wright to
form the studio, showroom and living space for their post-war
industrial design, which included the enormously popular American
Modern dinnerware. Stephen Sondheim has been a long-time resident
of the Gardens, as was Katharine Hepburn until recently.
Efrem
Zimbalist House
225-227 East 49th Street
Built in 1926 for the violinist, his wife, diva Alma Gluck, and
her daughter, novelist Marcia Davenport. Later Henry Luce lived
here, but in the 1950s the house became the 17th Precinct Station
House and later still was divided into apartments. Look for the
violin carved over the doorway!
Greenacre
Park
East 51st Street
between Second and Third Avenues
With its 25-foot-high waterfall cascading over the rear wall and
artfully landscaped trees and plantings, this is truly an oasis
of serenity for residents and those who work in the area. Built
in 1970-71 by the Greenacre Foundation (founded by Mrs. Jean Mauze,
the former Abby Rockefeller), the park was dedicated to Laurance
Rockefeller and the late Allston Boyer in recognition of their
invaluable assistance in its creation. The park owes its award-winning
design to Hideo Sasaki, former chairman of Harvard's Landscape
Architecture Department, and Harmon Goldstone, who served as consultant.
The park is open to the public during daylight hours from March
through December. Attendants are on duty at all times, and there
is a small concession that serves food.
The Greenacre
Foundation, which owns and masterfully maintains the park, also
operates a reference center at 457 Madison Avenue (51st Street)
in conjunction with The Municipal Arts Society. With its exhibit
space, reference desk, and specialty book store, this center serves
as a clearinghouse of information on urban open space, including
the design and management of urban parks.
Turtle
Bay Music School
224 East 52nd Street
One of Turtle Bay's oldest institutions, TBMS celebrates its 75th
anniversary in the year 2000. Since its modest beginning with
six students, this academy has provided music instruction for
thousands of active music lovers. The school offers private instruction,
workshops and classes, as well as an active community outreach
program. For more information, call 753-8811.
The
Norwegian Seamen's Church
317 East 52nd Street
Built in 1992, the present church continues a long tradition of
providing a home away from home for seamen and other travelers
from Norway. It has now become a religious, social, and cultural
center offering shows, exhibits, concerts, and a library of Nordic
literature. Check Events listing for programs.
Beekman Tower Hotel
East 49th Street (3 Mitchell Place)
Originally the Pan Hellenic hotel for women sorority members,
the hotel has been renovated and today offers more spacious accommodations
than the dormitory style rooms of the original. A fine example
of Art Deco architecture, the building was recently awarded landmark
status. The rooftop lounge offers a sweeping view of the East
River and environs.
Beekman
Place
The two blocks east of First Avenue (49th and 50th Streets) rise
up to a bluff that overlooks the East River. This hill originally
included the property of James Beekman's colonial mansion, Mount
Pleasant, built in 1763. Walking tours point out the distinctive
row of town houses remodeled in the 1920s.
Since the early
development of Manhattan, Beekman Place has enjoyed a quiet elegance
that makes it one of Manhattan's most sought after addresses.
An enclave of old money, the hill was home to members of the Rockefeller
family and Huntington Hartford. Theatrical personalities also
enjoyed the high life on Beekman Place, among them Alfred Lunt
and Lynn Fontanne, Ethel Barrymore, Katharine Cornell and Irving
Berlin.
Several famous
people lived at the large apartment building, 1 Beekman Place,
which is at the corner of Beekman and Mitchell Place, including
novelists Mary McCarthy and John P. Marquand. Remember the novel
and subsequent film Auntie Mame? This was where Patrick Dennis's
real Aunt Mame lived!
Peter
Detmold Park
between 49th and 51st Street, along FDR Drive
From 51st Street, a staircase leads down to Peter Detmold Park,
a charming public park featuring the wisteria-covered James
Amster Pavilion, a small garden and a dog run, which is maintained
by the community (PDP-ARF). Peter Detmold and James Amster served
as past presidents of the Turtle Bay Association, and both were
known for their tireless service to the community. There is also
an entrance (handicap access) at 49th Street, a few steps before
FDR Drive.
A footbridge leading from the staircase (north end of park) crosses
over Detmold Park and FDR Drive to a short esplanade built along
the East River. From here, you can watch the barges and sailboats.
Across the river, the ruins of an old building are visible. This
fortress was a hospital once used to quarantine smallpox patients.
MacArthur Playground, entrance
on 49th Street just before FDR Drive
Tucked behind the luxury residential and office building 860/870
UN Plaza, this children's playground features swings, slides,
a modular play system, sandbox, sprinkler and water fountain.
There are chess tables and benches, and a constant breeze from
the East River. A pay telephone is conveniently located just outside
the entrance gate.
931
First Avenue
On the northwest corner of 51st Street and First Avenue is an
historic building erected in 1892 as a primary school, on the
site that was once James Beekman's mansion, Mount Pleasant. The
present structure, Romanesque Revival in style, has served as
the UN International School, as a community center, a nursery
school, and a shelter for homeless women. Currently it is being
renovated for luxury condominiums and ground-floor stores.
Across First
Avenue (No. 940) is the Pisacane Mid-Town Seafood shop, a fish
market that replaced one which had been operating on the site
since the building was built, ca. 1860.
Other
Famous Haunts
Thomas Wolfe lived at 865 First Avenue, between 48th and 49th Streets
in 1935 and Truman Capote at 870 United Nations Plaza, at 49th Street,
for some years before his death in 1984. The luxury building of
860/870 has been the New York home (past and present) of quite a
few celebrities and socialites, among them Johnny Carson and his
wife, Joanna, and the late philanthropist Mary Lasker, who is fondly
remembered for her donation of cherry trees and thousands of daffodils
to the United Nations lawn.
Legendary residents
of the East 50s have included the writers Alexander Woollcott, John
Steinbeck (330 East 51st St.), and John O'Hara, who stayed at the
Pickwick Arms Hotel (230 East 51st St.) while writing Appointment
in Samarra.
In the mid-1800s, before
the grid system transformed the area's once bucolic farmland, Edgar
Allan Poe, reformist Margaret Fuller, and publisher Horace Greeley
(New York Tribune) lived in Turtle Bay, which still had a bay. Poe
wrote fondly of rowing a skiff over to Blackwell (now Roosevelt)
island. For quotes from their writings on the property and surroundings,
see History of Turtle Bay.
